Day 1: We Need More Money

In the end, we were delayed by more than 4 hours, all of it spent on the plane. Ugh.
The trip over was just draining. The seats in Virgin Atlantic's economy class are about 2 inches apart. I am a relatively average guy, and ended up contorted as I tried to find some position that was comfortable enough to sleep in. I failed.
The announcements by the cabin crew implored the passengers over and over to please be nice, don't take out your frustrations on the crew, they weren't responsible for the weather. And in fact, there was no screaming and yelling, no incidents of any kind. Thank goodness.
The meal was nice, and came with wine which I hoped would help me sleep -- no go.
And the excitedly touted entertainment system at every seat only worked for a fraction of the flight.
Eventually, we made it to Heathrow, 4 hours late, only to spend another hour making our way through the airport to immigration. The line was incredible, but when we presented our passports we were only asked why we were here and how long we'd be staying. I asked the immigration officer what the rules were regarding passports -- did I need to keep it (or a copy) with me wherever I went? She responded, "No, this isn't a police state." I chuckled and realized that's why I'm here. To see what a non-police state is like!
When we got close to Hyde Park I started to get my bearings because of all the maps I'd studied for months. And when we reached Marble Arch, I even recognized the scene from the live traffic camera linked here on the blog, and saw the camera up on the pole. I knew exactly where we were -- I'd seen that Tube station a thousand times.
Our hotel is beautiful outside, a crescent of Nash townhouses. Inside, our $280 a night room is teeny tiny, with two small twin beds shoved together. All the things listed as included -- fax, internet, etc. -- are charged separately. A can of Coke from the minibar is priced at $3.15.
We ventured out to the corner to pick up a couple of sandwiches. Two sandwiches and two drinks: $13.
Off to the Museum of London to learn about the city we're about to explore. But halfway through the Tudor era, I began to stumble about, exhausted.
So, back to the hotel, where I've had a short nap and we can decide what to do for dinner, and how much of a home equity loan I should take out to finance it.
One last hint: I almost got run over -- already. It's not the looking right that's the key, it's the realization that no matter which way you look, you'll never figure out where traffic is coming from. Weird 3 point turns, cars round a corner then suddenly turn toward you.
Let's be careful out there.

It's Offical

A mundane note: My official permission, including a ghastly caricature of self, to leave the United States of America has been received. It's much smaller than my old passport (issued in 1975, probably before some of you readers were born), which is army green, with the number perforated on each page, my photo (what ever happened to that poor child) actually glued on with an original signature required on the photo itself, and only two pages of important information - for instance "Travel in Disturbed Areas: If you travel in disturbed areas, you should keep in touch with the nearest American consular office." Yes, I'll keep that in mind. "Immunizations: Under the International Health Regulations adopted by the World Health Organization , an International Certificate of Vaccination against smallpox may be required as a conditon of entry to any country." My, how the worm has turned.

Papers, please

The ever-efficient U.S. Government has sent me my passport, and -- with the exception of my frightening photo -- I couldn't be happier.
How nice to know that the U.S. Secretary of State is personally requesting that I be given passage into another country. What a guy...

What can one man do?

Outside of present day monarchy, common man recognizes only a few names from British history, Henry VIII being one of them. What is not commonly realized about Hal is how, and why, he changed the religious history of Britain. Hal was not the born heir to the throne, he had an older, sickly brother Arthur, who was betrothed and then married to Catherine of Aragon (daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella of Christopher Columbus fame). Arthur passed away soon after the wedding and Catherine swore there had been no consumation of the marriage. King Henry VII was too cheap to send her and her dowry back, and Hal, young (17) and heroic had fallen in love with Catherine and married her himself. She had several miscarriages and still-births and their only living issue was Mary (Bloody Mary). Meanwhile Hal, now King, met Anne Boleyn, and had fallen out of love with Catherine. Anne said basically, "No cha-cha until I have a ring" and Hal, desparate, came up with the "biblical" excuse that any man who weds his brother's wife shall be childless", and tried to divorce Catherine. He was reminded he had a daughter, but being King demands a son, and the Pope said, "No, no divorce". In order to marry Anne, and beget sons, Henry VIII basically fired the Pope, had a holy war against Catholics, confiscated their property for his own use, locked up Catherine, divorced her, married Anne, still didn't get a son (until the next wife - more on that later) and England became primarily Protestant until Mary took the throne and being VERY Catholic tried to turn the tables of religion back. What a tangled web!

Abandoned Tubes

Some of the abandoned tubes were used during World War II to store and protect treasures from the British Museum. During the Blitz, which was quite fierce in London, entire neighborhoods destroyed by German bombers, there was great concern about the exhibits at the BM. The museum had itself been hit and had suffered extensive damage to one of the upper floors and so the treasures were packed up and moved to some of the deeper tube tunnels, gated and guarded until it was determined that it was safe to bring them back to light. Britian was entrenched in the "War Against Hitler" long before the US joined, although there were several Americans who actually joined the RAF during the late '30's and fought.

Travel by Transport

The incredibly comprehensive Transport for London website tells you everything you need to know about getting around London. What's more, you can purchase Visitor Travel Cards online, and they'll be mailed to you free -- even in the US.
Visitor Travel Cards are long-term tickets for unlimited Tube and bus travel. Visitors may purchase Travel Cards of up to 1 week duration, but they must be purchased online -- they're not available in London. A one-week Travel Card for all zones (areas) within London costs £39.50. (If you are only going to travel within the center of London, the cost is £20.) Considering that a single fare on the Tube is £2, if you ride Transport 3 times in a day during your week visit, you've more than paid for the card. In any case, you don't have to worry about having correct change for your ride, just show your Travel Card.

TubeGuru is an interactive Tube Map that highlights attractions, restaurants, etc. near Tube stations. Warning -- it only seems to work properly in Internet Explorer.

Speaking of the Tube, did you know that the London Underground has dozens of abandoned stations? I can't imagine a station being closed here in the D.C. subway, but London Transport has closed stations continually since the system opened, either for low passenger counts or to move the station or line to another location. In one instance, they built a station but then never bothered to open it! This site lists the abandoned stations and shows pictures of what you can only see in the dim light as your train passes through the tunnel.

Passport to success

Having never been out of the country before, I had to start my planning with the passport. Luckily, the State Department provides information online and downloadable forms to apply for your passport. You'll still have to venture out to get photos and submit your application, but they also helpfully provide a search page to help you find the closest place to do both.

To apply for your passport, you'll need a government-issued photo ID such as a driver's license and an official copy of your birth certificate. They'll take your birth certificate, but it will be mailed back to you with your passport. A new passport will cost $85. When I applied for mine at the Post Office, they wouldn't accept payment by credit card. I had to use a debit card, and purchase a postal money order, which was then used to pay for the passport.

They say it takes about 6 weeks, so plan ahead. I applied for mine on February 17, so it's been about 3 weeks so far. I'll report back when it actually arrives.

Mind the gap

Welcome to London Calling!
In May 2004, my aunt Maura Cordova and I will cross the pond for an 8 day visit to swinging London. This is a new experience, this international travel, so I've created this blog to document everything for those interested readers who enjoy that sort of thing. You know who you are.
Maura and I will post info on London, travel tips, and ultimately a diary of our experiences.